Khao Laem Dam, a fly fishing paradise in Thailand. At an altitude of 282 metres, it lies deep in the mountainous Thai jungle. Khao Laem is adjacent to the Three Pagodas Pass through the Bilauktaung Mountains, the traditional Burmese invasion route during the Ayutthaya period (1350 - 1767).
The dam sits at the confluence of two rivers, the Khwae Yai and the Khwae Noi within the Mae Klong river basin area of 30,106 square km. This vast reservoir is 60 km long and 25 km at its widest point. After flooding, it was quickly reclaimed by the jungle reverting to a natural state of untamed wilderness and fly fishing heaven.
The composite satellite image (above left) demonstrates the immense size and complexity of the water mass. Khao Laem has a water capacity of 8,860 million cubic metres and an annual inflow of 5,161 million cubic metres. It’s mean seasonal water levels are 155 m normal to 135 m low water. A 20 metre variance in water levels. Our boatman checks at the Ranger Station on departure & arrival.
A vast, bewildering array of inlets, bays, islands and peninsulas together with a host of underwater fish holding features are expertly navigated by our local boatmen.
Our boatmen “live on the water” - they live in houses on floating rafts. They have lived and fished Khao Laem for over 25 years.
A fly fishing safari into the jungle is always an exciting and stimulating adventure which needs to be tempered with experience, comfort and safety.
Unlike the steamy equatorial jungles of South America, the Thai jungle offers a relatively comfortable fly fishing environment if correctly approached.
The fly fishing jungle adventure begins with a 7 hour drive in our Mercedes Benz or a luxury coach.
This allows adequate space for fly fishing tackle, luggage, food and cool drinks. The Vehicle swiftly and safely travels across the central plains of Thailand towards Burma.
As the mountains come into view, the road begins to ascend. The driver makes a right hand turn towards to the southern tip of Khao Laem. Large signs by the roadside warn drivers of the perilous road ahead and urge them to ensure their vehicle is in good condition before travelling onwards.
The road runs parallel to the eastern shore of Khao Laem. Whilst travelling, gaps in the jungle vegetation give tantalising glimpses of Khao Laem, shown in the photos (right). Progress along the 75 km road is sure yet cautious, around hairpin bends and steep ascents and descents, signs of human habitance become scarcer. The mountains previously seen in the distance, now tower above the road. The road becomes narrower and bumpier as the jungle surrounds it. One guest commented that - “it is as if the jungle is absorbing us” quite an apt description.
When arriving at the resort, the weariness of the journey falls away. While gazing in awe upon the overwhelming beauty of Khao Laem from the balcony of the bungalow and the restaurant, the fly fishing prospects of the days ahead fill expectant minds and dominate conversation.
After freshening up in the private bungalow, a freshly cooked meal is enjoyed in the restaurant whilst soaking in the heady fly fishing atmosphere of Khao Laem. Plans are formulated over a few cold beers for the exciting fly fishing days ahead. Retiring early, with expectant anticipation, to the comfortable air conditioned bungalow to prepare for the following days fly fishing.
The fly fishing day at Khao Laem begins with a breakfast at 7:30 am. The boatman’s raft is a short 4 minute drive from the resort, followed by an easy 3 minute walk along a concrete path / steps to the raft complex. Freshly cooked meals, drinks and fly fishing tackle are put aboard the boat. Once everything is safely stowed away the boat heads swiftly for the fishing marks.
The fly fishing boat. A 50 hp Yamaha engine with electric auxiliary engine. A folding canopy and stable fly fishing platforms located fore & aft.
Setting off under blae (leaden) skies into the vast expanse of Khao Laem. Heading for the fishing marks. One of the objectives is the dome shaped solitary knoll seen in the distance.
The powerful speedboat saves significant time when travelling between different fly fishing areas. There is no set plan or routine. The fly fishing marks are chosen on the day according to recent performance. One day the outrun could last 30 minutes, while the next day’s run may be in excess of an hour. The invariable fact is the fly fishing area chosen will be the best Khao Laem has to offer at any particular season, water level and weather condition. The day’s strategy has already been discussed and agreed by the boatman and guide. Their combined knowledge is a powerful fish catching resource.
Anyone who has fly fished the great limestone Loughs of Connemara, the vast Highland lochs of Scotland or the mighty lakes of Canada will be familiar with that same indefinable feeling of excited anticipation, mingled with a sense of one’s own insignificance in the presence of such a magnificent natural environment.
Deep within a maze of flooded valleys, channels and inlets. The home of the Pla Kasoop - Jungle Perch. A fly fishing challenge at low water.
Without dropping speed, the boatman expertly swings the boat into what appears to be a bay but it is the mouth of a flooded valley. The boat ducks and weaves through a never ending series of forks and channels. The channels become narrower and the banks steeper. The banks were hill tops before the flooding. In some places, the rock has been washed bare of soil and massive tree roots and fallen trunks lay on the bank like resting crocodiles.
The boatman cuts the engine to a slow tick-over whilst travelling along a channel. This is the signal to string the fly rod. The boatman turns and smiles as he announces “Pla Kasoop 2 metres”. A 7 weight saltwater fly rod is strung with a 200 DC grain fast sinking line, sinking at 6 ips, which will reach the correct depth in harmony with the boat’s forward progress. The guide calculates a 6.5 foot drop at 2 seconds per foot - the guide calls a 13 second count as the fly hits the water and the retrieve started. A 6 lb. tippet and baitfish imitation is knotted on. The boatman stops the engine and takes up the paddle. The boat is manoeuvred with consummate skill, continually adjusting the course to match the fly fishers casting distance to cover known fish lies.
A sudden sharp snatch of the fly signals a a taking fish. The take is the same as a trout and a lightening fast strike is essential to hook up with the fish. Any similarity with trout ends here. This fish is a wild born predator - faster, stronger and more intelligent than any trout. The water is strewn with snags and Pla Kasoop knows them all. After a powerful and exhilarating fight the Jungle Perch is boated, weighed (anything between 2 and 15 lbs), photographed and released.
The boatman quietly paddles to a new fly fishing mark. A cast, the countdown - the retrieve. A slow draw on the line indicates the hook has snagged. The boat is manoeuvred backwards but the hook is held fast. The boatman hands the paddle to the guide. He slips over the side of the boat and like an otter, silently disappears under the water. A few second later he surfaces - holding the freed fly. Time for a change.
The boatman heads for another fly fishing mark. The same twisting and turning course is taken and the same approach made. During the journey butterflies, vividly coloured like Coalport tea plates and birds that have taken their plumage from Kelson’s Victorian salmon flies make brief appearances.
The boat slows - “Pla Chado, popper” is announced. A 9 weight fly rod is strung with a floating line. A wire shock leader and tippet is produced and a substantial, weed guarded popper knotted on. The boatman takes the boat silently along the right hand bank while the weeded left hand bank is fished. The popper is cast to land on the earth bank, then twitched into the water.
Fast, violent strips of the line work the popper into a frenzy. A short cast will not tempt Pla Chado. The boatman matches his course to the casting range. A violent eruption in the water shatters the silence but no hook-up. Pla Chado is angry but only slashes at the popper. The boatman holds position for the popper to be cast again. The area is covered again until a maelstrom of water and an arm jarring wrench, followed by line being stripped from the reel confirms a hook-up with Pla Chado. The fly rod and line must be held firm to break his first run to cover. Once the first run is held, the fight is almost won. Too soft a rod will not set the hook and Pla Chado will throw the hook and free himself. Eventually boated, the malevolent stare and rows of razor sharp teeth set in a monstrous mouth show how deserved his reputation is. This little chap has the endearing ability to breathe when out of the water. There is no oxygen starvation to slow him down. If left in the bottom of the boat, he can climb out of the boat using his pectoral fins, biting anything in his way.
Fly fishing Jungle Safaris in Thailand last a minimum of 4 days - 2 days travel and 2 days Jungle Fly Fishing.
Additional jungle fly fishing days may be booked.
3 Fly Fishing Days Jungle Safari
5 FlyFishing Days Jungle Safari